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I am serializing Forty Bucks and A Dream: Stories of Los Angeles on Substack. New chapters drop Mondays. Below the current piece is the Table of Contents, with links to what’s posted before. If you like these stories please consider becoming a paid subscriber. And share away!
THE MARRYING ROOM
I woke up on a Thursday morning and asked my boyfriend of six years if he wanted to get married that day.
Din laughed. “Can I finish my cup of coffee first?”
While he did that, I went online and found the nearest city hall; Beverly Hills performed marriages on Thursdays, but they didn’t have any openings that day.
“Let’s go get the license, anyway,” I said.
We drove to the big, pretty police station on Santa Monica and Rexford. On the walk to the registrar, we started a discussion about who pressed for marriage more, men or women?
“Women,” said Din, who’d been married once before.
“All women?” I asked.
“Just about,” he said, pulling open the heavy door to City Hall. The ceilings were high, the floors marble; the light green and governmental. We passed through the metal detectors and waited near a bank of tellers’ windows, where three couples were filling out paperwork.
“What about her?” I whispered, nodding at a slender woman in pressed jeans, saying something clipped to her groom, who turned to look out the glass doors.
“She’s been busting his balls for fourteen months, and now the fun’s really going to begin,” Din whispered back.
I laughed, but I couldn’t keep up the cynicism — the other couples appeared goofy with love. A man in his fifties in ratty sweatpants lunged for a kiss from his bride-to-be as they were handed their license. A very tall man dressed like an East Coast banker could not stop grinning as his fiancée, in a lovely Liberty of London shift, silently moved her lips as she read the questions.
“I’m not a ball-buster,” I told Din.
“Well, I know that,” he said, and kissed my hair.
Another couple seemed to blow in on a gust of air. He looked like NBA coach Steve Kerr, with a yarmulke; she had an open face, great glasses and a head scarf.
“Look at all these people getting married. It’s so HOPEFUL!” she said to the room. I responded by telling her she needed to get a form from the center basket.
“Thank you, THANK you,” she said.
Din and I filled out our form and turned it in to a clerk with a Brooklyn accent. “You can make it out to me,” he cracked, when I asked how to make out the $67 check.
We moved to the waiting area, a gem of 1930s modernism with benches along three walls, where waiting couples sat and stared at one another. I felt as though I were filling up with helium.
“Din and Nancy?” called the clerk. We proceeded to the window.
“Raise your right hands,” he said.
We did. “Do you swear the information on this license” — which had been typed and now looked as official and permanent as a birth certificate — “is the truth?”
“Yes,” I said.
“I do,” Din said.
“I do,” I added.
“Okay, that’s it. Are there any questions I can answer for you?”
“Yes, where do we get married?” I asked.
“You can’t do it today,” he said, and then, to the crabby female clerk next to him, “We’re not going to have an angry day, are we?”
“I know, I know,” I said, “but for when we come back.”
He pointed left. “Down the hall, the door where the bell is.”
As Din slid the license into its envelope, I heard headscarf gal say to the clerk, “You help marry people. It’s SUCH a wonderful thing.”
“Yeah, it’s a wonderful thingamajig. Next!”
Din and I found the marrying room; a bell made of honeycombed paper hung outside the door. Inside, sweatpants man and his bride stood before a man in a purple-and-magenta satin robe. The room was small, no space for froufrou, and I felt, at that second, as though I had opened a closet and seen a jacket I’d forgotten about, then put it on, and it fit exactly.
Sweatpants caught me peeping. “Come in, come in!” he said, holding open the door. I stammered that I was just looking, for when we got married.
The man in the robe looked puzzled. “You’re not getting married today?”
“No, no,” I said, “but for when we do.”
“Oh,” he said, and grinned. “Well, be sure to call, so I know not to be here.”
This was getting better and better.
I backed into the hall, where Din and a secretary were laughing. What?
“She was just commenting on what he wore to get married in,” Din said.
“I know, but he was so happy,” I said, and then we left City Hall, discussing what we would wear.
FORTY BUCKS AND A DREAM: Stories of Los Angeles
PROLOGUE
STARLETS
1: Forty Bucks and a Dream: The lives of a Hollywood motel
2: The Camera and the Audience
3: Jena at 15: A childhood in Hollywood
4: The Waxer
LEADING MEN
6: Brown Dirt Cowboys: Meet your Mexican gardening crew
7: Punch Drunk
LEADING LADIES
9: Who She Took With Her: The husband, the son, the boyfriend… a drunk’s tale
11: No Exit Plan: The lies and follies of Laura Albert, a.k.a., J.T. Leroy
12: Porn for Women
BACKGROUND PLAYERS
13: Sanctuary: Days and nights at the King Edward Saloon
14: Why Not to Write About the Supreme Master of the Universe: A day with the disciples of Ching Hai
CUT
17: The Marrying Room
18: Meet the Neighbors
19: The Pathos of Failing
20: Bite and Smile
The Marrying Room
So, what did you wear, Nancy? I also married at a City Hall and I’ll tell the story, as it is a good one; although I won’t tell it as eloquently as Nancy tells hers. My husband and I were both in the Navy and stationed in Sicily when we decided to get married. Our original thought was to go to the base chapel and get married by a chaplain, which we could have done if we were stationed on a US Navy base. But we soon found out that the rules are different on a NATO base, which is where we were. Personnel on a NATO base are bound by the rules of a host country and in Sicily at that time you could only have a legal church wedding if you were Catholic; everyone else had to have a civil ceremony at their local magistrate’s office. I am an atheist and my husband is a Lutheran. So we decided to do the magistrate’s office. How hard could it be, right? Turns out it was a real goat rope.
We filled out all the paperwork, which was a hassle as we had to go to the US embassy in Palermo in my very cool-looking, but extremely unreliable Lancia Fulvia. Thanks to my pretty piece of shit, what should have been a 6 hour round trip took us 12 hours. My husband can usually be counted on not to own a vehicle that was purchased for its looks alone - I am the only thing he’s ever acquired without extensive due diligence - but at the time he only had a motorcycle. Anyway, we finally got the initial paperwork and moved on to scheduling the ceremony. Our local magistrate did weddings on Fridays and Saturdays, so we scheduled for a Friday, planned a little party for close friends in my apartment afterwards and a short honeymoon to Rome the day after. The only thing left to do was have our paperwork stamped, which had to be done in the magistrate’s office no more than 48 hours before the ceremony.
We showed up at the office the day before the ceremony, paperwork in hand, only to discover that the person with the needed stamp was out sick. The stamp was locked in his desk and he had the only key. We would not be able to get married that weekend. OK. We rescheduled the ceremony and party to the following Friday and went, unmarried and with my maid of honor (who was stationed in England and had taken a week’s leave to be at my wedding) in tow on our honeymoon. We would be back late on Thursday, so our best man was tasked with getting the damned paperwork stamped. Unfortunately, during the few days we were in Rome, our local magistrate changed their rules and now did weddings only on Saturdays... My maid of honor had to return to London on Saturday afternoon, so we decided to go ahead and have the party as planned on Friday and get married on Saturday morning.
The party devolved into a bit of a debauch, as so many parties with sailors do, so while we did make it to the ceremony on time, I (pregnant) was the only member of the wedding party who wasn’t severely hungover. There was a bilingual man who hung out in an espresso bar across the street from the magistrate’s office and was known to be willing to translate business for American sailors in exchange for a carton of American cigarettes. We grabbed him on our way in for the ceremony. In the few pictures we have, he and I look bright-eyed and fresh, but my husband, our maid of honor and our best man look like a matched trio of zombies. I wore a maternity dress and my husband wore his uniform, minus his hat, which he forgot.
Despite the uninspiring start, the marriage itself stuck. In February we will celebrate our 37th anniversary.
Is Din short for something?